After you have finished removing it, you have to clean the dust or residues off the wall. On the market, there are many products to choose from, so try to buy the tiles which fit best your needs and tastes. Nevertheless, make sure the bathroom tiles are designed to resist against water. Strange as it might seem, there are several types of ceramic tile that are not water-resistant.
Consequently, pay attention before buying the ceramic tile from your local store. Measure the height from the floor up to the ceiling. Then, lay your tiles on the the floor in a straight line, making sure you put spacers between them. Next, use a tape measure along the tiles to see how much you have to cut from the first row of tiles you should install full tiles on the last row.
In addition, you have to measure the width of the walls, to see how much you have to cut from the tiles around the corners. We recommend you to set up the layout of the wall tile from the very beginning. You can draw the layout on paper, or by using a computer software. In our case, we used Sketch-up to draw a random layout. Mix a small quantity of tile adhesive in a construction bucket. Then, you should leave the adhesive to soak water for 5 minutes. In this manner, the water will activate the additives in the thinset.
Next, use a drill machinery with a mixing paddle to prepare the adhesive. Use your feet to lock the bucket into position, while you mix the adhesive with the paddle. From our experience, we recommend you to use average speeds at first and then increase it if needed. After you have prepared your bathroom walls, you can start installing the tiles. Load a little adhesive on the trowel and use the straight edge to spread it on the wall.
Start installing the first row of full tiles from the most visible corner, when entering the bathroom door. Make sure the tiles are not scratched or nicked before you install them over the adhesive bed. Select only the best tiles, to get a neat look. Continue spreading out the adhesive on small surfaces as to prevent it from getting dried before you install tiles on the whole area , using the notched trowel.
The pattern of the adhesive ridges is not important, provided the bed of mortar is even on the whole surface. It is impossible to install wall tiles in bathroom properly, without using the right spacers.
Generally speaking, tile spacers come in a large variety of dimensions, so it is up to you the type of tile you are using. Similarly, you could install small or large spacers. The main role of the tile spacers is to help you maintain an even gap between the tiles and to ensure the joints are consistent. Work with great care and install the spacers every time you lay a tile on the bathroom wall. In this image you can see an intermediary stage of our project.
Consequently, you can notice the tiles are all level and the joints are even due to the proper installation of spacers. The tile pattern is not important, but if you use tiles of different colors, it is essential to decide the pattern from the very beginning. In this image you can see a close-up of a tile spacer. You should be able to notice that a tile spacer plays a fundamental role in the success of any tile project: it helps you install tiles properly and keeps the gaps even.
In most of the cases you have to cut the tile as to fit along the wall corners. Consequently, use a tape measurement to determine the dimension at which you have to cut the tile.
Afterwards, you could use a score-and-snap cutter, a diamond blade or a wet saw, to make the cut in a professional manner. Working in a roughly 2x3' [6] X Research source area, use a tiling trowel to apply the mortar.
Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar.
Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar. Your trowel size will depend on the size and type of tile you're using.
For the average small wall tiles which are currently popular, you will want to use a 1x4" square notch trowel. Test a tile to make sure the mortar is mixed and spread correctly. Mortar a small spot and then place a tile. Pull the tile up and look at the pattern that is create on the back. If you see clear lines, then the mortar is too dry. If you see goopy mounds then the mortar is too wet. Place your tiles on the wall. With the mortar ready to go, you can start placing your tiles.
Just twist them into place, sticking to the small area that you prepared for yourself. Place your spacers between each tile as you go.
These are usually cross shaped and placed at the corners but if you have unusual tiles you may have to improvise, such as by placing only one arm between tiles and letting the rest of the spacer stick out. If the mortar rises up between the tiles as you place them, the bed is too thick and you will need a smaller trowel. Check the tiles for level as you go.
This is when a laser level can really come in handy. Part 3. Choose and mix your grout. You'll need to choose what grout is appropriate for your project, depending on how large the gaps are between your tiles. Once you've chosen, mix the grout according to the packaging directions, being sure to also mix any additives you want.
Usually, you will start with the water in a bowl or bucket and add powder until the consistency is like toothpaste. Mix only what you can spread in about 20 minutes, since mixing any more risks the product drying out. Sanded grout is used for gaps larger than 3mm. Unsanded grout is used for gaps smaller than 3mm.
You can find all sorts of additives at your local hardware store. These can do everything from making the grout more water resistant to changing the color to match your tiles. Spread the grout , using a grout float. Now, spread the grout using a grout float in a roughly 3x3' area, or whatever size you can grout in about 20 minutes.
You do not want to push the grout around parallel to the lines, since this can gouge the grout back out of the gaps. You can save yourself some time by using the grout float to remove as much of the excess grout off of the tiles as possible.
Clean the grout. After allowing the grout to cure for 20 minutes wipe the tiles with a clean, damp sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiled surface. Wipe just a small area, clean out the sponge, and then wipe some more.
It is best to do this for each small area as you complete it but you can wait until you have done two to four small areas as well.
Keep in mind, however, that it will be much harder to get the grout off and the final look may not be as professional.
Allow it to cure. Now, allow the grout to cure for three hours or whatever amount of time is recommended on your product directions. Make sure that the area remains dry and that it gets adequate ventilation. Some additives may cause the grout to cure more slowly.
See the included packaging for any addendums to the curing process. You can clean off any remaining residue after the grout has cured. An old sock or dry rag work well for this. Seal the grout. Once you have installed all of your tile, you'll want to apply a grout sealer. This will help keep mold from growing in the gaps and will need to be reapplied usually every year preferably every six months. Though every sealer is different, usually it is a wax which must be applied in a circular motion with a rag.
You can also get brush-on or spray-on tile sealer. Do not put these sealers on non-glazed, unfinished tile. It will absorb into and possibly stain the tile. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Art Fricke. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation. Helpful 66 Not Helpful If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Plastic tile spacers help keep tiles separate. After the bonding thinset has cured, the spacers can easily be removed. Besides tile spacers, another way to deal with the problem of gravity is to use a batten board.
A batten board helps you start your bottom-most course or row of tiles. A batten board is usually a 1x4 or 1x2 board screwed directly into the wall. The batten board should be horizontal and level. Do not start the batten board on the floor. Instead, bring the board up to about three-quarters of the height of your tiles. So, if you're dealing with 4-inch tiles, your batten board would start 3 inches off the floor. With the bottom row of tiles started, the question is: what next? Do you stack the tiles vertically, one column at a time?
Or do you choose to complete one row, then do the next one? The best way is to arrange your wall tile in a draping pyramid shape. Here's how you do it:. Install the first four tiles in a pyramid: three on the bottom and one on top.
Every subsequent row is a process of draping over the pyramid, back and forth. Begin your first drape on either the right or left side, and bring it up, over, and down the other side. Repeat your second drape in the opposite direction. Continue back and forth, alternating sides. Tiles need to be installed in a square space. Holding a bubble level to a straight, 6- or 8-foot board, make sure that both walls and the floor are plumb vertical and level.
In many cases, they will not be plumb and level. If it is off by more than a half-inch, you need to correct the wall or floor.
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